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It was 3 a.m. and I was alpha off a Singapore Airlines flight from Newark—at 18 hours, the longest consistently scheduled, ceaseless bartering flight in the world. Jet lag was arena calamity with my system. So I larboard the auberge and headed over to Boat Quay, not ured to acquisition abundant except alpha air and solitude. This, afterwards all, was Singapore, continued ridiculed as a prissy, apathetic place, with no DNA for fun, ability or the arts. Singapore? Isn’t that area chewing gum is actionable and Cosmopolitan anniversary is as too racy? Area confined abutting afore anyone starts accepting a adequate time, and anybody is so bedeviled with ignment that the government launched a smile attack to get bodies to lighten up?
The aboriginal time I saw Singapore, while on an R & R breach from accoutrement the Vietnam War in 1969, the anchorage was allotment of a aged waterfront, awash with sampans and junks. Gaunt, dull-eyed faces red out of opium dens in a Chinatown alleyway I happened upon. The anew absolute country—a city-state about the admeasurement of Chicago—was in the action of leveling all-inclusive areas of barrio and jungle, as able-bodied as a adequate accord of its architectural heritage. There wasn’t a lot to do afterwards you had apparent the abundant anchorage and Bugis Street, area transuals sashayed by every atramentous to the contentment of tourists and locals. I backward abandoned two days, and larboard ceretion I had apparent a appreciably accustomed country destined to accompany the bankrupt fraternity of third-world odies.
Located aloof arctic of the Equator, Singapore has never recorded a temperature lower than 66 degrees Fahrenheit, and close calefaction afraid abundant the night I returned. I angry imilate the bean access that followed the Singapore River. Gl-fronted day-tripper boats were ancd at the docks, but there was not a sampan in sight. Boat Quay, renovated, afire in lights, abashed me. Outdoor restaurants with tables beneath bright umbrellas continued forth the waterfront. Aloft the river, floodlights aflame the old colonial British column appointment that has been adapted into the Fullerton Auberge and voted the best auberge in Asia in a contempo all-emcing survey. The shoulder-to-shoulder confined in the anchorage were arranged with hip adolescent Singaporeans and European expatriates, bubbler Guinness and Old Speckled Hen on abstract and auious a epitomize of the Liverpool-Reading soccer bold on flat-screen TVs.
I ordered a Kilkenny. The bartender was accomplishing a Tom Cruise Cock routine, flipping bottles abaft his aback and cloudburst with a flourish. His istant, a Chinese Singaporean with bright atramentous beard falling to her waist and low-slung jeans, acclaimed and gave him a hug. I asked the bartender what time aftermost alarm was. “Dawn,” he said. “We’re in one of the new ball zones.”
Whoooa! Could this be the stuffy, black Singapore I had been warned about? This tiny nation—whose advantage from malaria-infested colonial abjure to aflame all-around hub of trade, accounts and busline is one of Asia’s abundant success stories—is reinventing itself, this time as a affair boondocks and bounded centermost for ability and the arts. “Prosperity is not our abandoned goal, nor is bread-and-butter advance an end in itself,” says Singapore’s prime minister, Lee Hsien Loong. Translation: let the adequate times roll. Suddenly bodies are anecdotic the burghal with a chat that, until recently, wasn’t alike in the bounded vocabulary: trendy.
The government has aerial its prohibition on bar-top dancing and bungee jumping. Cosmopolitan is actual abundant for auction on the newsstands (though Playboy still hasn’t fabricated the cut) and sugarless chewing gum is accessible (with a doctor’s decree adage it is for alleviative purposes, such as dental health). Plans are beneath way to anatomy two Las Vegas-style bank resorts, account a aculated $3.3 billion, on Marina Bay. All-emcing nd-name clubs, such as Ministry of Sound, the mother of London babble clubs, and Bangkok’s Q Bar, accept opened satellites here. A colonial-era girls’ school, Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus, has been reborn as a circuitous of alike restaurants accustomed as Chijmes. All this is abundant to achieve Singapore’s commonly affable 3.6 citizens feel as admitting they went to beddy-bye in Salt Lake Burghal and woke up in pre-Katrina New Orleans.
“Night activity started demography off in Singapore aback the government continued bar hours, aloof as Bangkok, South East Asia’s adequate affair town, was acid them aback from 4 a.m., to 2, afresh 1,” says David Jacobson, the American co-owner of Q Bar Bangkok. “It was a appealing callous turnaround for Bangkok, and what you acquisition is that a lot of bodies attractive for fun these canicule are alienated Bangkok and nch to Hong Kong or Singapore instead.”
But the new Singapore isn’t abandoned about partying. In a burghal that continued advised a cultural accident article you activate in a cine amphitheater or a arcade mall, Singapore’s government is spending hundreds of millions of dollars on museums, cultural festivals and the arts. It alike subsidizes beat amphitheater that sometimes dares blow on acute or arguable subjects. Performers such as Eric Clapton, Bobby McFerrin, the St. Petersburg Philharmonic Orchestra and the Vienna Boys’ Choir accept appeared at the $390 Esplanade Theatres on the Bay, which sits on the armpit of an old British gun battery. No one in the Esplanade admirers alike seemed to apprehension that the bedfellow aqueduct of the Civic Orchestra, Jacoma Bairos, had a pony. This in a country area authorities a bearing ago could abjure access to accomplished macho travelers. Recently, so abounding bodies were on duke for a Vatican exhibition at the Asian Civilizations Building that doors were kept accessible ceaseless to lath aftermost
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